1906-02-Improvement Era—Memorial Monument Dedication

Memorial Monument Dedication

by Susa Young Gates

Improvement Era, February 1906, pp. 308-319

Improvement Era, March 1906, pp. 375-389.

There are two significant facts connected with the dedication of the monument to the Prophet Joseph Smith : First, the time has come to publish to the world by visible, tangible, unmist akable signs the mission of the man Joseph. The second fact was stated at the close of the trip, by the man of all living men who best loves the memory df the prophet, his nephew and namesake, Joseph F. Smith: that in all of love and reverence which we pay to the living or the dead, we must never forget to give the honor, the glory, the credit and the praise to God, our Eternal Father , and to his Son Jesus Christ. With these two beautiful ideals as foundation thoughts, let us review the trip made by the Memorial Company, and record the most important data.

The personnel of the party was of interest to the student of Church history. Leading all was the president himself, the living representative of the great family through which came the prophet ; his second counselor, Anthon H. Lund; the president of the Twelve Apostles, Francis Marion Lyman; the four apostles, John Henry Smith, representing as well the family of Geo. A. Smith, Charles W. Penrose, Hyrum M. Smith, and George Albert Smith; the patriarch to the Church, John Smith; President Seymour B. Young, of the Seventies Quorum, and representing his father. Brother Joseph Young, first president of the first quorum of the Seventies; Rulon S. Wells, also of the Seventies' Quorum, and a representative of his father, Daniel H. Wells; President L. W. Shurtliff, of the Weber Stake; Angus M. Cannon, patriarch, and representing the Cannon family; Frank Y. Taylor, president of the Granite Stake, and representing the family of President John Taylor; Joseph F. Smith, Jr., of the Historian's office, and grandson of the murdered patriarch; Jesse M. Smith, of the Davis Stake, and representing, with his brother Judge Elias, the family of Elias Smith, cousin to the prophet; Edith Smith, the historian of the Smith family; George F. Richards, of the Tooele Stake, representing the family of both Willard and Franklin D. Richards; Brother Richards had his wife with him and the baby, Oliver, which was afterwards claimed by the whole company; Brigham Frederick Grant, representing the family of Jedediah M. Grant; Ashby Snow, representing the family of Apostle Erastus Snow; Benjamin Goddard, representing the Bureau of Information; Lorin Farr, the man who was baptized in 1832, who lived with the prophet, and who has passed through all the long history of the Church; Bishop George Romney, who also knew the prophet, and one of the representative men of the Church ; John Macdonald, also acquainted with the prophet, and himself a tried and true Saint; Arthur Winter, the Church stenographer, and one of God's own noblemen; Ida Smith, the wife of Apostle Hyrum Smith; Ina Smith, the young daughter of President Joseph F. Smith; and Susa Young Gates, representing the family of President Brigham Young. Representatives of other staunch and true men of the Church were invited, but were unable to go.

Among those who were desired to go were Lucian Snow, of the family of President Lorenzo Snow; J. Golden Kimball, of the family of President Heber C. Kimball; Colonel Willard Young, Major Richard W. Young, and Mrs. Zina Young Card, all of the family of President Brigham Young; Mrs. Bathsheba W. Smith, the only living person who received her endowments from the prophet; Mrs. Emmeline B. Wells, one of the greatest women in the Church; and others.

A beautifully engraved invitation to attend the celebration was sent out by the presidency to the leading men of the nation, and to prominent friends of our people in Vermont and elsewhere.

It is fitting that the Y. M. M. I. A. should recognize the fact that one of its own founders— under the counsel of President Brigham Young — was the originator of the idea to commemorate the centennial of the prophet's birth, by erecting a monument on the place where he was born. Junius F, Wells, in company with Spencer Clawson, visited this spot in 1884, and then conceived the idea to acquaint the world with the fact that one of its greatest men and martyrs was born in an obscure village on the green hills of Vermont. What the monument is, no one can describe; for its simple beauty and majesty, like the~ character of the man it represents, defies description. It must be visited and studied before its exquisite harmony of proportion and detail can be understood. It is perfect in conception, and, together with the cottage which nestles near it, it forms not only a monument to the greatest man of modern times, it is also a testimonial to the gifted brain and indomitable hand which conceived and erected it. As long as the monument stands, the name of the man who originated it will be spoken in honor. Sentiment is the source of all the beauty and harmony in the world. And the most delicate, artistic, and vibrating of life's unities prompted Junius F. Wells to choose the one thing of all others most fit to form the keynote of the whole harmonic structure. He found naught but the remnants of the crumbling foundation walls of the old house where Joseph Smith was born; but in the center thereof, guarded by two overreaching trees of flaming maple, lay the gray hearthstone, still imbedded in the earth, and around it a few crumbling bricks of the old chimney. Hither he led the architect: "Build me a house," he said, "which may be of varying proportions and details, but of whatsoever it be, let the center of this hearthstone be the center of all your plans. Above this stone, you shall erect a wide and simple, open fireplace, in keeping with its outlines; and this hearthstone shall be the altar on which this home shall rest. ' ' And it is so done. The cottage itself is in exact harmony with the whole atmosphere of reality and ideality. Its broad, simple, flowing outlines, its sunny, wide porches, and its great, roomy cellar, its beautifully simple, yet costly furniture of mission design, its furnace below and its bathroom above, all mark it as a modern miracle to the plain, simple dwellers of the hills, who meet only with such luxuries as furnaces and bathtubs, in hotels and books.

No picture can do it justice, as no description can paint the monument. They stand on one of the most commanding situations n that rolling paradise of dream- vistas. And the heart of every Latter-day Saint is thrilled with that worshipful peace, when gazing on these two lovely monuments, such as fills the soul only when standing before the unique and splendid architecture of our Salt Lake Temple. The shaft and the cottage satisfy completely every requirement of sense, fixtures, and exquisite beauty.

On Monday, December 22, 1905, the Memorial Company arrived at South Royalton, the point nearest the monument from the railroad. After an early breakfast at the hotel, sleighs were secured for a trip to carry President Smith and relatives to Tunbridge, Orange co., up and over the hills, six miles from Royalton.

On the way, they crossed the river several times, the enclosed bridges appearing like so many bams built over the stream. Many farm houses were passed, with their foundations covered ready for the winter. Barns, corn cribs, sheds, etc. , were in close proximity to the houses. Sheep, oxen, turkeys and chickens made it look very homelike. Pine and spruce trees standing on the hillside, dressed in their winter green, added to the beauty of the scene.

All alighted at the home of Miss Chapman, the town clerk, and were very cordially received. Brother J. F, Wells had written a letter of introduction, but the welcome was just as hearty before as after its presentation. The town records, although yellow with age, were found to be in a very good state of preservation.

The attested record of deeds, births, and marriages of the Smith family was found, also other interesting facts pertaining to individual members of the family. The births of some of the children of Jesse, Asahel and Joseph Smith were found, among them that of Hyrum Smith, his sister Sophronia, also his cousins Emily and Jesse J. Smith. The farm of Joseph Smith, Sr., was described as being situated in Tunbridge Grove, near the Royalton line.

No one could be found who could locate the Grove farm without the assistance of a surveyor and his chain.

We had dinner at the Tunbridge House, under the management of Mr. Blake, and enjoyed a good New England dinner. Some of the homes were visited, but little of interest in regard to the • Smith family was known. Joseph Smith, Sr. moved with his father, Asael Smith, to Tunbridge, in 1791, and assisted him in clearing a large farm of its heavy growth of timber. On January 24, 1796, he married Lucy Mack, at which time he himself owned a farm.

In 1802, he rented his farm and engaged in the mercantile business. Among other things, he sent a cargo of ginseng to China, but was swindled out of the entire proceeds by an agent he employed. To pay his debts, he was obliged to sell his farm. (See Lucy Smith's book, History of the Prophet.) In 1816 he removed to Palmyra.

On the return journey, several ox teams were passed; a saw mill in operation, also a grist mill.

Meanwhile, others of the party took sleighs to go up to the monument. The ride was delightful, the company genial, and the first sight of the beautiful monument filled the heart with joy.

Elder Junius F. Wells met us, clothed in heavy, outdoor working garb, for he was most busily engaged in assisting his slow workmen in the herculean task of completing the cottage for the morrow. There were no pillars on the porches, the porch floors were not even laid; and inside, things were almost as incomplete. Mrs. Wells and her daughter, Abbey, were also in working clothes, sweeping, unpacking and flying about, directing others as well as working themselves. But all three were as courteous and thoughtful as if no other burdens but their unexpected visitors rested upon their shoulders.

At noon, the large party, over twenty, from New York and Boston, rolled into Royalton. Elder John G. McQuarrie, president of the Eastern States Mission, was in charge, and his fine eyes were alight with enthusiasm over the grand event about to take place. With him were two of Zion's most talented soloists, Robert C. Easton, and Emma Lucy Gates. "Our Rob" had his dear little plump wife Janet with him, just as young and gay as ever she was. Her refined and cultured sister, Mrs. Eva Young Davis, accompanied them, thus making three daughters of Brigham Young and one granddaughter, as well as two grandsons, Brigham Cecil Gates, the young musician from Boston who was to accompany singers and chorus, and Murray Jacobs, who is in Boston on a mission, as representatives of President Brigham Young. There was also Elder Gudmanson, a young student violinist, Miss Ellen Thomas, a vocalist, and Elder McQuarrie's wife, Maggie, with a large group of missionaries from that section of country.

That evening a social service was held in the large hall attached to the hotel which had been decorated with flags and greens in honor of the occasion. A huge fire had been carefully stoked with great pieces of wood, all day, to warm this quaint old gathering-place. Elder McQuarrie presided, in his usual genial and dignified fashion, at the evening service, and there was a general, social spirit felt.

The exercises were as follows:

Opening Hymn ."America"

Opening Prayer ' Seymour B. Young

Singing - . "We Thank Thee, 0 God, for a Prophet"

Violin Solo M. 0. Gudmanson

"Home So Blest" r. C. Easton

Encore: "Annie Laurie."

Address Prest. Joseph F. Smith*

"0 Dry Those Tears" Emma Lucy Gateg

Encore: "Love in Springtime" (in Italian.) (Intermission.)

"0 My Father" R. C. Easton

Encore: "Loch Lomond."

Address John Henry Smith

"Oh, Ye Mountains High" Emma Lucy Gates

The next morning, everybody was astir early, as there was a long, cold ride to the monument; and the services were to begin at 10 o'clock. The weather was a part of the wonderful providence which attended every phase of this work; it is very unusual to find less than five feet of snow in this region after the middle of November; and Elder Junius F. Wells had been so frequently told how impossible the completion of his work would be, and because of this fact the mild open weather with scarcely three inches of snow was called in all the country-side, "Wells weather." And '"Wells weather," it continued to be, with just a flurry of snow to help the runners of the sleighs to climb the many steep hills leading to the monument.

The town of Sharon is some distance below the cottage and monument, and is only visible at one turn in the road. But all the country seems to be named in townships, no matter how scattered the farmhouses may be.

Every sleigh and team for miles around was called into requisition, the ones for the Utah and New York party having been secured in advance by the thoughtful care of Elder Wells.

The road, past the winding White river, and up, up, up through winding, turning, twisting hill-roads, was made delightful with merry company and happy thoughts. The scarred trunks of giant maple and pine trees on each side the road told the story of the almost insurmountable difficulties encountered in conveying the mighty pillar and its base to the place where it now stands. For the special wagon, with even twenty powerful horses, which were secured to haul the shaft from the railroad up three miles into the hills, was found of no use. They could not draw it one inch, as the wagon sank deep into the soft earth. Next, a roadway was made of two-inch planks, which, even then, were soon broken and split. At last, chains were fastened around the trunks of trees, and progress was painfully made in this way — the shaft being thirteen days in transit up the three miles and a half road.

Numerous incidents occurred which unmistakably proved to the mind of Elder Wells, the interposition of Providence. One was amusing: a certain mudhole is so old and incurable that even the road-master, when appealed to, stood aghast at the proposition to mend that particular bottomless pit. A wagon-load of hay had sunk almost out of sight, several days before, but no one thought it possible to do anything towards eradicating the nuisance. However, the night before the shaft was to be hauled over, the whole soft bog froze over solid and strong, and nature had made the bridge for Mr. Wells.

Indeed, the name of Mr. Wells, in that particular country, is one to conjure with; the iron bridge at Royalton was found to be a mere toy, when it came to transporting a hundred ton stone across it; down to the lower bridge, then, went Mr. Wells. A section of railroad track was needed, Mr. Wells had it built. Special cars of extraordinary strength were required; they were secured through the enterprise and tact of Mr. Wells. In fact, the skill, the enterprise, the power and the influence of the Church itself are greatly magnified in central Vermont through the character and labors of Junius F. Wells.

The cottage was packed with visitors and neighbors that mem. orable day of December 23, long before the services began. The exercises were held in the large front room, built around the sacred hearthstone, looking down towards Sharon. The mantle over the hearthstone was banked with smilax and crysanthemums, and over the mantle hung an oil painting of the Prophet Joseph. It would be unfair to omit the mention of the work done by Mrs, Wells and her young daughter Abby, in the selection and arrangement of the cottage furnishings and final exercises; although Mrs. Wells herself smilingly declined to accept any honor, placing all our laurel wreaths of praise on the brow of her capable husband. But certainly both ladies must have done much to contribute to the final artistic success.

When President Joseph F. Smith called the assembly to order, not only was the hoase itself filled to the door, the porches and yard, cold as it was, were crowded. Almost immediately President McQuarrie edged his way out of the back door, and standing at the base of the monument, surrounded by an eager, but halffrozen crowd, he began an eloquent presentation of the history which had been begun in the earth on that identical spot, just one hundred years ago that day.

Within, the crowds hushed their voices and listened to the hymns sung by the congregation; then reverent prayer followed, by president Anthon H. Lund. Elder Junius F. Wells followed with a vivid yet modest recital of the story of the monument. It was, indeed, as later characterized by president Smith, a revelation. The tact and skill which had marked his labor, shone brightly through his relation of those labors, and while showing to his Utah friends the conditions which he had met and overcome, his words were so delicately chosen that no offense could be felt by any local visitor. Instead, he was careful to note the names and invaluable services rendered by various firms, and generous, helpful individuals.

After Robert C. Easton sang Guiding Star, a composition by a Utah musician, F. Dewey Richards, in his own soulful, matchless style, Apostle Lyman followed with a few well-chosen words of appreciation for the labors of Elder Wells, and for the splendid assistance rendered by resident Vermonters. Then Dr. Edgar Fish, a state senator who has extended many courtesies to Elder Wells, was introduced, and he paid a tribute to the untiring energy which had made the beautiful shaft a reality on the far-away hillside. He referred to the friendship felt by Vermonters for Mr. Wells, and expressed his own admiration, which was a growing one, for the people whose power, thrift and sobriety made a prosperous state and an honest community.

Apostle John Henry Smith gave one of his characteristic, happy speeches, filled with the spirit of brotherly tolerance and love. He was followed by Emma Lucy Gates and Robert C. Easton, in a duet. An Angel from On High.

Apostle Hyrum M. Smith then bore a strong and earnest testimony. His cousin, Jesse M. Smith, next said a few modest, dignified words in behalf of the Smith family, most of whom were born in Vermont.

Apostle C. W. Penrose followed with a stirring, powerful testimony, saying more in ten minutes than most men do in twice the time. He said he was not born an American, but he loved the memory of that mighty American whose latter-day mission had brought his own eager feet across the seas.

The next number on the program was the song, Joseph Smith's First Prayer, by Emma Lucy Gates.

The closing exercise was the simple, beautiful and touching dedicatory prayer offered . by President Joseph F. Smith, which is found on another page of this magazine. The humility and yet the quiet majesty of that appeal must touch every heart. The love for the greatest of earth-prophets; the reverence for God and his Son Jesus Christ, with the appeal for protection from every destroying force that might attack the sacred monument, is eloquence itself. While the modest justice which invokes a blessing on the" head of Elder Junius F. Wells, whose brain and hand conceived and developed the idea, forgetting, however, that the work never could have been carried out without the deep and loyal cooperation of the head of the Church, all this breathes through the prayer, and strongly impressed every hearer with its peculiar, unselfish spirit.

At the close of the exercise, the people were dismissed by Patriarch John Smith, and all repaired to the monument, to assist in its unveiling. It was very appropriate that this ceremony should be performed by Miss Edith Smith, for no one in that numerous family is more worthy the honor. She has been for years the unpaid historian and Temple recorder for the Smith family; and what loving acts her brain has otherwise conceived, and her hand executed, only her friends, the poor, the needy, and the angels in heaven, will ever know. So, when the assembly was gathered arounyd the exquisitely beautiful shaft, her slender hand drew the rope which bound the Stars and Stripes about the polished base. A shout at once arose, and men reverently lifted their hats, while women wept with joy and gratitude that such a man had lived, had died, and now had been remembered.

The thronging crowd demanded more music from Emma Lucy Gates, as her fame had been carried around the country for miles. She responded with the Star-Spangled Banner and America.

A delicious luncheon was then served, under the skillful direction of the best cook in all the country-side. Temporary tables had been laid all around the great square, open cellar; and here chicken pies of mammoth proportions, and the most delicate construction, were dispensed in great triangles. Salads of dainty flavor were abundant, with relishes and pickles of every variety. But ah, the creamy, yellow, flaky, rich, pumpkin pies— is not even their memory fragrant with spicy breath and delightful odors? The mince pies were equally fine; while cider, made from Grandfather Mack's own apple trees, was mildness and sweetness itself. It was too bad that four of our number ate "at the first table," and hurried away before the last and best of the feast was served; but please don't name chicken pie to any of them, or you will be saddened with their sadness, and rebuked with their sorrow.

After this interesting ceremony, the Utah and New York people repaired to the pretty sitting room above, and gathered around in a circle, while President Lund, in a loving, earnest speech, presented President Smith with a gold locket and chain, as a testimonial of the gratitude and affection felt towards him by the party who had journeyed from home with him. President Smith was moved to tears by the unexpected gift, paying thus the most eloquent tribute to the friendship which had manifested itself.

After the close of this unexpected ceremony, Elder Wells brought up a small box from below. He explained that even the railroads had refused to bring the heavy square die which was to bear the inscription of the monument, so he had been compelled to cut out the center of the huge granite block. From this piece of granite he had caused fifty polished paper weights to be made, as souvenirs of the event and the day. The lists of the Utah and New York parties were then read, and each one responded, receiving the precious memento as his or her name was called. Even baby Oliver was not forgotten.

Elder Wells gave over, to the keeping of President Smith, two most interesting relics. One was a large button, such as was worn on gentlemen's coats in the early part of last century; the other was a coin dated, 1803. These were found by the workmen in excavating for the cellar.

While gazing with reverent eyes on the hearthstone, in this room. Elder Wells came up and showed a crack across the stone, neatly cemented. One day, on arriving at the grounds, he saw a couple of tourists with a ten-pound hammer. One of them was trying to break off a part of the hearth to take away as a relic; with the only angry words he uttered while there, he rebuked the vandal who would ruthlessly destroy the one thing of all others most cherished for the altar of this new-old home. Surely the iron fence contemplated to be set about the monument will be needed, else the perfect granite shaft would be chipped to pieces by ruthless hands.

A caretaker will live at the cottage, and plenty of literature for the stranger will be on sale there; while its roof -tree will shelter the weary elder or saint who may knock at its hospitable door.

At last, the reluctant party broke up, and prepared to return to Royalton. While others were busy cutting canes from the trees round about as souvenirs, some stood in silent contemplation before the polished shaft, pondering on its deeper meaning, its wider message. Hope and faith are the sermons which it preaches to the outside world; but there is even more than this to the Latterday Saint, whose heart throbs deep to the message which was brought to earth by the man— Joseph. Here is the beginning! Back to the very birthplace of the Prophet, starting at the very fount, the Saints have begun to build up the waste places of Zion. That work is begun! It will never cease! And, as was foretold by President Lyman while on the trip, the spirit which was a very part of the Memorial company, and the work which they did, will be felt throughout the Church. That spirit, he said, was a foretaste of the influence and power which would accompany every such future expedition. The upward trend of such events is accelerating with each succeeding year.

One other solemn thought rested like a benediction above the tried and troubled heart. The babe Joseph — he who played at his mother's knees at that very hearthstone — belonged to his tender, loving mother. The youth Joseph belonged to his devoted and still somewhat exclusive kinsmen. But the man Joseph — he of the heaven-seeing visions, and of the earth reforming principles— this man Joseph belonged to the people ! To me, to you, aye, and to all mankind. Who are his kindred and his friends today? They are even as the kindred of his worshiped Master — those who serve God and keep his commandments. God manifested in his own way that Joseph belonged wholly and solely to the people; only so can the peeple belong to him.

(to be concluded in march number.)

(concluded.) Returning to Royalton, an evening service was held, at which Elder John G. McQuarrie presided, and Presidents Joseph F. Smith, Anthon H. Lund and Elder Charles W. Penrose addressed the large congregation. Elder Junius F. Wells also made brief remarks. R. C. Easton and Emma Lucy Gates sang solos with unusual brilliancy and pathos, accompanied by Cecil Gates. The congregation joined in singing America. A very genial friendship was shown by the hotel proprietors and the citizens generally. A kindly, generous spirit seemed to prevail among all the people. Considerable pains were taken by the residents, two fine pianos being loaned, one at the cottage, and one to the hotel, for the use of the musicians of the party.

The special car left for Boston early Sunday morning, all of the New York party accompanying them to that city. The Utah party went at once to the Parker House, on arriving at Boston; after luncheon, all went down to the commodious hall, on Deacon street, in which the elders hold regular services. Here were found quite a company of resident Saints, who, with the visiting parties, filled the large hall.

Again Elder McQuarrie presided at the services. Vases of exquisite flowers decorated the pulpits, and a good piano aided the musical part of the exercises. The speakers were Elders George A. Smith, Hyrum M. Smith, Charles W. Penrose, and Rulon S. Wells and Pres. Joseph F. Smith. The spiritual feast that was enjoyed through the power that rested upon our beloved President, will never be forgotten by those present. His exhortation to the young men present to keep themselves clean and unspotted from the sins of the world, moved even the reporter who came from a great Boston daily to report the services. It will not be out of place to refer, also,to the inspired remarks made by Elder Rulon S. Wells at this meeting, as well as the exquisite singing of Emma Lucy Gates who sang Joseph Smith's First Prayer with such feeling that all present were touched to the heart.

An evening exercise was held at the same place, conducted by Elder McQuarrie, at which Elder C. W. Penrose gave one of the most stirring and eloquent sermons of the trip. He was followed by Elders Ashby Snow, B. F. Grant, Frank Y. Taylor, Patriarch Angus M. Cannon, Benjamin Goddard, and President Seymour B. Young of the presiding Seventies Quorum. All of these brethren spoke with spirit and power. President Anthon H. Lund closed with some excellent and appropriate remarks. Emma Lucy Gates sang twice, pouring out her heart and voice in melodic praise to God.

The next day was Christmas, and President Smith and some members of his family party were entertained at the home of Mr. Frank Bennett at Saugus, ten miles from Boston. Everything possible was done to make the visit a pleasant one, by Mr. Bennett, his wife, and happy, genial family.

Bright and early Christmas morning, the members of the Smith family who had remained at the Parker House, Boston, took the train for Lynn, Massachusetts. Automobiles were secured, and, calling at the home of Mr. Bennett, the rest of the pilgrims were picked up.

About twenty-one miles northeast of Boston is situated Topsfield, in Essex county, Mass., where the original progenitors of the Smith family, in America, located in 1630.

It is supposed that the ancestors of the family came from the English village of Topsfield, in Essex county, but the supposition cannot be confirmed, on account of a lack of proper records. The cemetery, where a number of the family are buried, was visited. Among them are Robert Smith, his wife Mary; Samuel, son of Robert, and his wife Rebecca; also Samuel, son of Samuel, and his wife Priscilla. In 1873, President George A. Smith visited Topsfield and had a monument of Utah limestone erected there in honor ,of his ancestors.

The company also visited the home of Asael Smith, son of second Samuel, and grandfather of the Prophet. The old house had been torn down, and the new one built on the old site. All enjoyed a drink of the cool, clear water from the old well at the side of the house. During the persecution of the despised Quakers, Asael was bold enough to invite them to his home and befriend them. For this act, he received persecution from his neighbors, and, to secure peace, he moved his family to New Hampshire, and from there to Tunbridge, Vt. The home of Robert Smith, the founder of his race in America, was next visited. As with the home of Asael, a new house stood on the foundation of the old one. There, also, was found an old-fashioned pump.

The party called on Mr. George Francis Dow, secretary of the Topsfield Historical Society. Mr. Dow has taken much interest in compiling the history of the Smith family, in that section of the country. The people generally follow agricultural pursuits and are quite successful, as the soil, in this section, is very good. The party returned by way of Saugus, and partook of Christmas dinner with Mr. Bennett and family, reaching Boston in time for the train whose next destination was Palmyra.

The other Utahns divided into various parties. Some went up to Bunker Hill, others visited the old South Church, familiar to all students of American history. Here George Washington was christened, and here are exhibited many relics of the Father of Our Country. Here also the grandfather of Brigham Young, Dr. Joseph Young, was christened, in 1730. It was in this church that the mass meeting of indignant citizens was held just prior to the famous Boston Tea Party. Here, indeed, beat the very heart of the early American pilgrims and patriots. When one views the extensive relics which are gathered here in this old church for the information and education of the multitude, one wonders why the rich, historical store of Utah and "Mormon" history are not similarly gathered and put upon exhibition.

At this place we parted with President McQuarrie and wife, who had done so much to make our visit pleasant in Boston. Also we Ipft here Lucy Gates and brother, the Eastons, and other NewYork and Boston friends.

Did you ever have a Christmas tree in a flying car? Spangled and bedangled, ghttering amidst its green? If you never did, you can't imagine how queer it looked to see the popping white heads and popping eyes of that merry company, rising in their seats, as Seth, the colored porter, sailed down the aisle, on Christmas night, just after the train left Boston, carrying a gorgeous Christmas tree. Where had such a thing come from, gay with shining balls, and loaded with paper parcels? Ask Edith! The girl who knows everything, and who does everything good and thoughtful. There were clowns that beat their cymbals together, every time you pressed them on the stomach; and dark-skinned dolls, and shining reptiles. Beetles that crawled and clapped their metal wings when their internal regions were properly wound up with the accompanying key. And, of course, candy and nuts galore. Ask the Judge and Brother McDonald about that. The ladies all gave each other ' 'things. ' ' Pres. Smith gave each lady a hat pin, and Brother Goddard gave the favored fair a china plate with a street scene in Royalton upon it. And so the jolly evening ended; as usual, at last, with sacred songs of praise, and a quiet prayer. Peace and good will surely came to that car on that Christmas night. Then on towards Palmyra!

Of all the places on the earth, sacred to the hearts of the Latter-day Saints, Judea and Cumorah head the list. Where the ancient prophets lived, suffered and died— and where Jesus the Christ worked out his earth-destiny — that land of Galilee and Jerusalem is dear to the soul of every son of God! But here on this continent, also, prophets lived and suffered and died. Here came the Savior of the world. And here, hunted and driven, the last Nephite prophet rallied his forces around an ancient historic hill which had once before been the last battle ground of a dying nation. Once Ramah, now Cumorah, held about its feet the contending armies of the two great peoples. And here the last vestige of the pure faith and religion of the Nephites dripped, drop by drop, from the heart's blood of the peeled and hunted race which had at last deserted home, truth, love, and God. And here, alone and in exile, Moroni buried the records of his people, and over this sacred spot his resurrected spirit watched for fourteen hundred years with unceasing vigilance the treasures committed to his care. What a tragedy! Could the mind of a mortal conceive such a sublime epic as this?

How frail and human we are! When the merry party of thirty emerged from the special car, at Palmyra, all the surface talk was of carriages, crops, routes and country. But most of us carry deep down in the sub-consciousness of the brain our real thoughts, our actual selves. We put on our talk as we do our clothes, to act as a shield for the inner being, or to please our friends.

One word, nay two, twenty, and indeed a volume, might well be spoken to tell of the tact, forethought, and excellent management of the business head of our party, Elder George Albert Smith. No care was felt by individual members; there was no hitch in the perfect arrangements which were made for the comfort and convenience of the whole party. All were alike guarded and shielded from worry and extra expense. Carriages, meals, street cars, and even special trains, were arranged and provided, under the sole charge of this capable head. And that he could and did so efficiently handle a large party of thirty people, securing every needful accommodation without one break or delay, marks him as one of our rarest executive officers.

The party, on reaching Palmyra, entered closed carriages, and drove at once to the Smith farm, now owned and occupied by Mr. William Chapman.

The gentleman and his charming young wife were entertaining guests, but all united in one hospitable line of welcoming hosts to bid the Utah party welcome to the historic roof-tree.

This house was finished about 1824; the Smith family first lived in a small log house near the place where this home now stands. It was upon this "new" house that Alvin Smith, the Prophet's brother, was laboring with such eagerness, when he was stricken with his mortal illness. His pathetic appeal to his brothers to finish the house, so that his parents would have a comfortable home in which to dwell, rings in the ears, as one goes from room to room of this now old "new" house. Joseph Smith did not receive his first visions here, but it is pretty certain that he translated part of the Book of Mormon here, and here were concealed the plates for many months. Here, too, no doubt, angels conversed with him, and taught him glorious principles.

There are two historical pieces of furniture in this , home — a large, handsome divan, and a fine, heavy mahogany table made by President Brigham Young in his early youth, and bought by the late Miss Fanny Chapman, sister of the present owner of the house. Here also is the old cannon ball, a relic no doubt of the Mack family's patriotism in the Revolutionary war, which was found by Mr. Chapman under the roof of the bedroom occupied by the Prophet Joseph. When the house was repaired and enlarged, some years ago, two of these cannon balls were found in the roof, and one he gave to the late Franklin D. Richards. Mr. Chapman's theory is that they were placed there in accordance with an old New England superstition which makes cannon ball a protection from evil spirits.

The northwest corner of the north front room, between twa windows, is pointed out as the place where, screened by a curtain, the youthful Prophet translated the plates of the Book of Mormon. This tradition, like others connected with this historic place, is given by Mr. Chapman on the authority of an intimate friend and associate of Joseph Smith, in those early days. The gentleman has promised to write out this statement, thus verifying, as nearly as may be, the places where the work and manifestations of the Prophet are located. Joseph's bedroom has been occupied by Mr. Chapman for many years. There is a quaint closet attached to it which is just as it was when occupied by Joseph.

From the home, after being photographed several times by our indefatigable amateurs. Elders Smith and Goddard, we drove down to the grove across the stream where there was once a pool used, such is the tradition, for baptismal purposes. This pool has been filled up, but Mr. Chapman carefully points the place out.

There are many stretches of woodlands on the Smith farm, as well as on all the adjoining farms in this country. Wood is the fuel, mostly. But nowhere can there be a more beautiful woods than this splendid grove of beech, birch and maple, covering from five to eight acres. The singular part of it is that for at least two-thirds of a century no ax has been laid at the roots of these trees.

When asked why this had been, Mr. Chapman replied that his father, who bought the farm in 1859, had been told that this was the particular piece of wood in which Joseph Smith claimed to see a vision; and his father had never felt disposed to mar its sacred silence or beauty. He had passed the charge on to his son, the present owner, and that charge has been sacredly observed. That the grove is of ancient growth is evidenced by the trees; one stump had one hundred and eighty rings on its surface.

Into these stately woods our party went, with reverent steps and glistening eyes. The heavy carpet of dead leaves rustled a welcome, and the tall roof trees bowed in quiet response to the thrilling thoughts which stilled every heart.

Here had the boy kneeled in absolute faith, and here had evil and good battled over his prostrate body. Here, finally, earth's fountains burst, and truth, the sum of existence, swept down on the beams of direct revelation. The profound mystery of the presence of God the Father, and his Son Jesus Christ, hovered like an unspoken prayer, over the whole scene. With one accord the party gathered about the President, and someone began the simple but touching song, Joseph Smith's First Prayer. No more profoundly grateful hearts and voices were ever raised on earth than ascended to tha throne of God in that song, in that grove, on that blessed, beautiful day. Oh, that all our friends in Zion could have been present to swell the choras. Then the party drove toward Cumorah.

Arrived at the home of the man who farms the place, the lady of the house, who was alone, gave gracious permission for the travelers to go up on the hill, which is known everywhere in the vicinity as ' 'Mormon Hill. ' '

The wind blew a chilling gale, but all quickly ascended the steep, northern acclivity of the hill. The hill is farmed on the eastern side, but the western side is too precipitous and rocky for such purposes. A straggling growth of small timber covers some portion of the western slopes. The top of the northern part of the hill is quite sharp and narrow in its crowning edge. But it slopes and widens quickly as it reaches southward, finally loosing itself in the plains beyond. The northwestern side of the hill is where the box was concealed.

The party was specially blessed with the presence of President Joseph F. Smith, who visited the spot in 1878 with the late Apostle Orson Pratt. Elder Pratt pointed out the place, previously shown to him by Oliver Cowdery, where the box lay hidden. Then seven large trees were near the place, and a grove of timber covered the lower west side. President Smith fixed his eyes on a place, a third of the way down, and near the northern end of the hill. This, he concluded, was the place pointed out by Brother Pratt to him. There was a slight depression just where his eye rested, and soon our party were down there; and sure enough, there were the decayed stumps of the trees which once shadowed the spot. Bits of the stump and some smooth slate rocks were picked up as souvenirs.

Then all returned to the top of the hill, the hymn. An Angel From on High, was sung, and the president said quietly, and solemnly, that he would engage in prayer. The spirit of that prayer grew with its utterance until the whole wide world, the past and the future, opened to the gaze. That hour was an epoch in the history of this people.

Once more returning to our carriages, some members of the party secured some ancient Indian arrow-heads, gathered on the hill by the lady at the farm house, and then a quick drive was made to the Palmyra Hotel, where an excellent supper awaited us. Every one was kind, and every comfort was provided.

In the evening we had the pleasure of examining the old printing press on which the Book of Mormon was first printed; then we called on Mr. Sexton, a liberal and cultured gentleman, the wealthy banker of the place, who showed us the first sheets said to be struck off from the press of the Book of Mormon. This gentleman told some of our party the touching story of his noble mother's life-work. She was a Quaker preacher, and, under God, carried light and hope to many sad and darkened souls. He also gave us a booklet describing the ceremonies attendant upon the presentation of one of the historic Cuban war cannons to Palmyra, in honor of Admiral Sampson, whose birthplace Palmyra is.

There is an old lady who knew Martin Harris, still living in Palmyra, but she has no friendship for the people among whom Martin Harris cast his lot. However, Mrs. Alyne, for such is her name, gave us a picture of herself as a souvenir of our visit.

Once more, that evening, we were speeding on our way westward, following the historic trail of our pioneer fathers and mothers, as they followed the lead of the Prophet Joseph Smith. As always, the evening shadows drew the party closer in happy communion; and, as always, our evening visits closed with a song service, led by Apostle Hyrum Smith, and his wife Ida and sister Ina. But these were not all the singers; President Seymour B. Young raised many a tuneful lay with his rich baritone voice, and there were others who added strength to the various parts.

Our destination was Kirtland; but we stopped at Cleveland,. Wednesday morning, and from there took a special street car ta Willoughby, about sixteen miles away. Here we found some exceedingly large wagons and exceedingly small teams to carry our party over the hilly roads to Kirtlani. But all things pass, and we drove at length up the last pretty hillside, and faced the small and simple, but exceedingly beautiful. Temple at Kirtland, Perched upon a commanding point in all that rolling expanse of hills and vales, its spire caught the gaze long before the last turn in the road brought it fairly before the eyes.

Places as well as people have a more or less dominant atmosphere; and surely the surrounding influence of this once sacred Temple would freeze the most bubbling enthusiasm.

One could but be grateful that the place is not a stable and junk house as it was some years ago. The Reorganites who own the house, have taken great pains to restore its original design and finishing.

Elder U. W. Green, one of the Reorganite twelve apostles, came over very courteously and made himself very agreeable to the whole party. He was a gentleman, and as such he conducted himself. But how we longed to be alone in that historic structure, just our own party and the crowding memories which filled heart and brain.

My sweet Ina had brought her little Doctrine and Covenants, and we sat quietly together in one of the pews and read the startling revelation given to the Prophet in this same house. We gazed with awe-struck eyes upon the "breast-work of the pulpit," upon which had rested the feet of our Savior. Could it be that we were permitted to be, for ever so short a time, within those sacred walls, hallowed by such a manifestation? 0, that we could leave forever all the weary faults and daily sins that plague our weak mortality! Alas, they go not away for the wishing! But clasping hands, my Ina's in my own, we wi^^ihed a solemn wish, and prayed us each a sacred prayer.

The party were deeply interested in studying the quaint carving on the pillars and copings everywhere. The turned wood of the semi-circular pulpits, the carving on these as well as elsewhere justified the high praise given by Elder Green — who stated that architects and builders declared this work and the Gothic windows to be as fine and rare as any found in the United States. But oh, the poverty of the people who built the house! It must have looked a palace to their starved eyes.

We did recall, and with profound joy, the fact that when they were working upon this Temple — when so many of the Twelve and leading men deserted their posts and plotted against the prophet — Brigham Young and Heber C. Kimball stayed on, working night and day to fulfill the revelations of the prophet. No wonder Joseph honored Brigham and Heber — they loved him with a love that was stronger than death, and in that love they honored God, and kept his commandments.

We were told that the old curtains had disappeared, torn to shreds by curio vandals. New ones hung in the old places. Regulation sectarian pews fill the lower hall, and a beautifully-carved contribution box rests upon the lower pulpit. An impossible story is told of this box belonging to the original furnishings of the Temple, being cared for by an old lady during the days when the Temple was used for a dance hall.

Above the lower hall is another one, its counterpart, even to the odd lettering on the three pulpits in each end. Still above are a series of low-ceiled classrooms, which, we were told by Elder Lorin Farr, were used as class rooms in the old Hebrew school. The second hall was used by the School of the Prophets. Those who now own the Temple have no conception as to what a Temple means, and' it is used, therefore, as an ordinary sectarian chapel.

In an ante-room, near the entrance, hung a front view picture of the prophet, which was not a very pleasing likeness; beside it was a small picture of his wife, Emma Hale Smith. The deep, mournful lines upon her face, the heavy-lidded eyes, and the tragic mouth, weighed upon the observer with unwept tears. What was her life, and where is she now? Do these questions trouble you?

It was a painful surprise to find that an entrance fee was charged to view the Temple. No words may tell the conflicting emotions called up by this fact. To the Latter-day Saint, it was worse than desecration, it was defilation. If the Temple were shown at all, to make it a merchandise!

The grave yard, where some of our dear ones were buried, lay close to the temple. If President Brigham Young's first wife, Miriam Works, was buried here, as is said to be the case, no trace of the grave could be found. We were told, however, by Elder Lorin Farr, our genial, wonderful, living history-book, that she was buried from this Temple, and that the prophet preached her funeral sermon. Joseph said that she would not lie long in the grave, but would soon be resurrected.

Certainly here in Kirtland was buried the Patriarch Hyrum's first wife, Jerusha, and here our present beloved Patriarch John Smith was born. Near here, also, Judge Shurtliff was born, and here Elder Lorin Farr lived with his parents. How fortunate we were, nay, how blessed, in the society of these grand pillars of the Church to vivify and make alive for us every spot of ground we visited.

The site of the Kirtland bank, the old Whitney homestead, as well as that of Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Joseph Young and Amasa Lyman, were all pointed out to eager, curious eyes.

President Smith visited Mrs. Keziah Turk, an old lady who was full of memories and anecdotes of the former inhabitants of Kirtland. Sites of the homes and burying places were visited, and photographs taken of most of these historic spots.

Back we drove, and walked and waited, to Willoughby, where dinner had been prepared for us.

Hearing of a historic chair, said to be the workmanship of Brigham Young while in Kirtland, a search was made for it, but only its picture was discovered with some pretty verses written about it by the gifted lady who once had possession of it. Then street cars to Cleveland, and westward again we flew to Chicago next.

It would be interesting to tell of the delightful day spent at Kenosha, the whole party being taken in special cars, and then being shown some of the most prosperous shops in that city, wagon shops, automobile and plow manufactories, etc., as well as being entertained royally at the Pennoyer Sanitarium for luncheon. But this would be impracticable in the limits of this article. Yet, a word must be spoken about the generous hospitality of Mr. Slosson and his charming daughter Agnes, with her brilliant Southern friend, Miss Mabel Hale. Through the same generous hospitality our whole party went to the theatre in Chicago, that night, to see Maxine Elliott in her frothy play of Her Great Match. But we all enjoyed it, for we were, just then, in the mood to enjoy things. What temporal creatures we are! When the highest spiritual blessings are poured out upon us, we turn from them to eat, to drink, and to cast longing eyes at forbidden pleasures. It is good that God is more merciful to our sore weaknesses than we are to each other — or where would we go for salvation?

Next day a number of the party went to see the doleful, dreadful sights of pork-packing. Others, who had full purses, as well as hearts, tramped about the department stores in search of presents for loved ones at home. But a few were whisked immediately away in our car, eight miles out of Chicago, and there left for the day. President Lyman and Judge Shurtliff, who were in the car, found their way back; but Brother McDonald, Seth and one woman whiled away the day as best they might. A long string of jingling verses made merriment afterward, as a part of that day's exile.

In the evening the fine Chicago church, presided over so efficiently by Elder German E. Ellsworth, was filled with friends and resident Saints. Excellent music,under the direction of Elder Louis Ramsey, was furnished by a choir of about twenty voices, sustained by the heavy pipe organ.

Again the remarks made by the brethren filled every soul with joy, and touched every heart. The speakers were: Elder John Henry Smith, who was eloquent indeed. President F. M. Lyman followed with a finished discourse on the restoration of the gospel. President Lund then read some passages from the scriptures, and gave a thoughtful exposition thereon. Elder Penrose followed with one of his rousing testimonies, and the inspired words of our President closed the services. All felt renewed and strengthened by the thoughts uttered.

It was a surprise to see Mme. Lydia Von F. Mountford come sailing into the church just as grand looking as ever; she was accompanied by her sister, Mme. Mamreof, and a princess of the Six Nations, a Mohawk Indian woman. All were exceedingly pleased to see the Utah people, and the pleasure was surely mutual.

Again westward ! The last two days brought the little party in the car closer and closer together in the bonds of love and good-fellowship. Surely, never before has there been such an expedition, although there may be many to come after. It was a universal expression that no event in the past could compare with it.

And when, on New Year's Eve, the little company gathered for a quiet testimony meeting on the flying train, not even the blessed atmosphere of the Temple could exceed in power and spiritual radiance the glory which filled every heart and streamed in mellowing tears from every eye. Each one spoke, and the sweet confessions borne, the predictions made, the comforting assurances given, crowned by the tender, solemn confidences of the leader of us all, this was an experience too sacred to even describe. Those who were partakers could but ask God and their own hearts how they — of all his children — had been so blessed!

It was a Memorial Company indeed! For the memories of each one will carry its fulness to all eternity. And when our President, moved, as he was, to the core by the grateful, loving expressions made to him personally by most of those present, said, with the voice of true inspiration and power, "Give not glory to man, nor the son of man, but to God and to his Son Jesus Christ! To him be all the honor and the praise! 'Tis not I, nor any man, not even the Prophet Joseph Smith, who stands at the head of this work, directing and leading it! It is God, through his Son, Jesus Christ!" Ah, that was the voice of the shepherd, and we all knew it for ourselves. Men are men, and therefore weak! But God and Jesus Christ! Jesus is mine, is yours, is every man's beloved Lord! To win his deepest love, we have but this to do— to keep his plain commandments! There is no kinship, no tribe, no race in Jesus' love. For he is Lord of all the world. And even weak Samaritans, and women, can win Ms tender love and pity. And so this lesson, this comforting, precious New Year's lesson, sank into all hearts and blessed each hungry soul.

When New Year's Day was half gone, our car reached home — our beautiful home in the vales of the mountains. Our dear ones, so missed and loved, met us at the train, but even so, each member of the party sighed to find the trip was o'er, and life and stern reality were before us all once more.

Who was the best, the kindest, the most thoughtful, the most grateful and blessed of all that goodly company? Ask each, and you will receive the same answer.

Every Latter-day Saint will appreciate the delicate honor which prompted the president of the Church to make this journey an entirely independent affair. Each individual guest bore his own individual expenses; the Church was not taxed for any one's going, but each gladly paid his own way.

And now the trip is over, and like life, 'tis one of mystery; for what is real is never seen, and what we see is but the shadow of the giant forces which are ever hiding, but moving with a tread that shakes the universe.

Out of the mists of memory rises that exquisite shaft; it cleaves the sky, the flawless surface bearing a clear-toned, divine message to the darkened world of superstition and unbelief. Who runs may read; and the way- faring man, though a fool, need not err therein. This is the inscription cut upon the monument:

Sacred to the memory of

JOSEPH SMITH THE PROPHET, Born here, 23rd December, 1805.

Martyred, Carthage, Illinois, 27th June, 1844.

On the opposite side of the die:

TESTIMONY OP JOSEPH SMITH.

In the spring of the year of our Lord, 1820, the Father and the Son appeared to him in a glorious vision, called him by name and instructed him.

Thereafter heavenly angels visited him and revealed the principles of the gospel, restored the authority of the Holy Priesthood, and the organization of the Church of Jesus Christ in its fulness and perfection.

The engraved plates of the Book of Mormon were given him by the angel Moroni. These he translated by the gift and power of God.

He organized the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints on the sixth day of April, 1830, with six members.

He devoted his life to the establishment of that Church, and sealed his testimony with his blood.

In his ministry he was constantly supported by his brother Hyrum Smith, who suffered martyrdom with him.

Over a million converts to this testimony h^ve been made throughout the world, and this monument has been erected in his honor, to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of his birth, by members of the Church which he organized.

They love and revere him as a prophet of God, and call his name blessed for ever and ever. Amen.

Around the capstone above the die :

If any of you lack wisdom, let him ask of God, that giveth to all men liberally, and upbraideth not; and it shall be given him. — James 1: 5.

Salt Lake City, Utah.